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This was a Todd surf stop and I am glad we did it. Here the river met the ocean and there are these big walls that were where an old pier use to be. Quite unique and great photo ops. Unfortunately I couldn’t get on the other side of the river where Todd was surfing to take photos, but got some cool ones of a old shipwreck on the beach. I ended up talking to a Maori surfer who was friendly and fun to talk to. Really a beautiful little spot with black sand beach where the river meets the ocean!
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I was nervous, as I always am, paddeling out to a new spot. The ocean was serving up some waves and I was happy there was another guy out there. I first was going to paddle out in a different spot but the shore break really worked me once and so I paddled across this river, onto a break wall, and then jumped right into the line up. Surfing is hard enough as it is so my senses were buzzing as I tried to get in the right position and even figure out which way to go….left or right. There was lots of reverb coming off the wall but it turned out to be super fun. Visually the land looked awesome from the water and I was happy to have a cold shower in the parking lot after as we headed on our way.
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